This is the last one...........& a big Thank You

Made it home safely.....a very long & uncomfortable trip as we were surrounded by babies & little kids for the whole 25 hours....Not a lot of sleep happened.....!!!

Had a lovely evening Fri with our friends who surprised us with a get together......so nice to think that people care about us so much

Off to Melbourne towing a trailer today to deliver Emmeline's many belongings to her....we will almost have a spare room now for visitors!!!!

Now a little reflection on our Camino......we have found that we don't really need very much to have a good life....as long as there is food........ a warm, dry bed.....a shirt on our backs (doesn't even have to be clean).....it's the caring, love & support that we get from our family & friends that are the most important.....& these are what we have found.....& in plentiful supply.

So a grateful, loving THANK YOU to all of you who have supported us through this....it would have been so very much harder without you all behind us

Our love to you all

We're on our way home......

leave Heathrow tomorrow arvo 10/06 at 8.30pm & arrive Bris Thurs morn approx 7ish.
Hard to believe it is all about to be over but at the same time we're ready to come home....
Went to Windsor yesterday....lovely hot day....millions of very white Poms out & about with their shirts off....not a pretty sight..........but we did wave to Liz who was home for the day.........not sure whether she saw us though!!!!! John wanted to call in for a cuppa but we think she must have been a bit busy..........
Still nice & hot today..... a real change after the weather we've had recently...........catch up with you all soon
love to all

Finisterre.....& beyond.......

No we haven't cut you all off....just not had access to the keyboard for a few days.......
Anyway....we did get out to Finisterre...though it came close to us not getting there...the buses were really dear & took 3.5 hrs each way....so we would have had a really short day....the few tourist buses that rdo the run cost 50€ & we didn't really want to do it like tourists....luckily we were able to hire a car as Doug had his licence & being Canadian was usedto driving on the WRONG side of the road.....we got a Hyundai Altos...smalller that a Getz....but plenty of room for 4 bums....the weather was beautiful & clear...we couldn't have asked for a better day.....the Atlantic was as calm as a millpond....we could see forever.....we could see "the edge of the world"....what a leap of faith it must have been for Columbus etc to set sail for the edge & beyond!!!!! We had a fair bit of time out near the lighthouse for a bit of deep thinking & retrospection........then headed back into the town of Finisterre for a beautiful seafood lunch & the requisite vinos on a terrace overlooking the harbour......very civilised.....all up it cost us only 20€ each for the car hire.
Had a bit more of a look around the old town of Santiago when we got back....also went to give St James a hug from behind as the queue had been too long the day before.........bought a few momentos for ourselves & Mar-Mary you'll love your Chrissie present part 2!!!!!!!!!!
Packed up & flew out of Santiago on Wed morn........a bit sad & glad that it is all over.
We have been unable to get hold of John's foster brother so had a nice night in a B&B in Bishops Stortford then headed to London for 2 nights.....as some of you know by now we were able to get cheap tickets to see "Lord of the Rings the musical" for thurs night....John was in 7th heaven being in middle earth again......still a bit boring for me but the special effects were stunning......beforehand we had a bottle of wine & nibblies at the same bar in Covent Garden that we had visited last time....still just as much fun listening to the buskers & drinking!!!!
Yesterday we spent in Oxford Street as the weather was a bit too overcast to go on the London Eye as I had hoped....maybe next trip!!!
Today we have come out to High Wycombe to see our friends Ann & Paul for a few days
Now for the big announcement....we're not coming home..........only kidding!!!!!
Meant to say we are coming home early as we know you have all been missing us soooo much!!!!!
We are flying out next Tues & should be in Brisbane by next Thurs morn
See you soon......love to all

Santiago...

WE DID IT....WE ARE HERE....FINALLY MADE IT....& what a haul this last day was....it was really boring..... especially as we had to walk around the runway of the airport....we were so close we were at the very end of the runway....could see all the lights etc......thank goodness we were still able to walk on a dirt track & NOT on the bitumen I thought we had to walk on....we got our last bit of mud!!!! The actual walk into Santiago was a real anticlimax....just suburbia....couldn´t see even the spires of the Cathedral......it is quite a small Cathedral....& much in need of a major overhaul...to the extent that there are weeds growing out of it....all over it.....& it needs to be sandblasted....it reminded John & I of some of the temples we saw in India nearly 30 years ago.
Anyway had a bit of a teary moment when we finally rounded the corner to the front of the Cathedral....didn´t think we would ever get here......it has seemed such a long time & at the same time has gone so quickly....I know that sounds a bit Irish!!!!!
We got our certificat....no queues as we had been warned.......our names written in Latin!!....tomorrow we will go to the Mass at 12 noon then some shopping.....we have been lucky to find a lovely pension that has only been open a month....so everything is still new.....will stay here until we fly out on Wed.
We have been out with Wendy & Doug (Canada) to celebrate for all of us reaching Santiago....they have done over 300kms & we have done about 500kms....so we have already had 3 bottles of wine & while Wendy & I make use of the free washing machine....we have sent the boys out for some cerveca....not quite ready for the night to be finished yet!!!!! Also sat in a great Tapas Bar (Doug & Wendy haven´t had Tapas yet) & made pigs of ourselves on great Tapas for dinner......feeling a bit bloated now!!!!!! especially as we had "helado" (icecream) on the way bakc.....will soon have any weight I´ve lost back on again!!!!!
Will talk again soon..............love to all

re Mar-Mary Xmas pressie..........

Mum....why do you think we mentioned it....we´ve had "value" from mentioning it already!!!!!!
It´s going to be a long wait to Xmas......................................!!!!

Arca......

Well this is our last night before we arrive in Santiago tomorrow.......although the signposts say we have 18kms to go, we suspect it will be more like 23-25kms....and a lot of that will be through very boring industrial estates......also we will pass the airport which is 12kms outside town....and we have to walk right around the runway which crosses the Camino!!!! Apparently very, very boring. Anyway we caná wait to see the spires of the Cathedral in the distance & know we are getting close.
Had a lovely walk today through more eucalypt forests & some pine forests....even a spruce forest....the smells are lovely. As Wendy (Canadian) has been a bit unwell she got a taxi yesterday & today we sent all the bags ahead to our accommodation (except John who wants to carry his all the way) It definitely feels strange to walk without my pack on....I find I use a totally different gait & hence have different aches at the end of the day. Can´t make up my mind yet whether to send it on again tomorrow or to carry it all the way.
We have prebooked out accommodation the last few days as it has been absolutely horrific trying to get a bed....arrived in one place onñly to be told all the beds had been prebooked....& we had another 6kms ahead of us to try to get a bed!!!!! It makes a great difference knowing we have a bed booked & can relax & enjoy our walking.
Short blog but stand ready for our successful completion blog from Santiago........
love to all

Mar-Mary....

we have your Xmas pressie....you are just going to love it!!!!!!! & so will everyone else!!!!!

Arzua..........

17 kms today....omly 2 x 20km days to go....now we don´t want it to end. Today the countryside has changed dramatically....we are seeing palm trees & lots of citrus treees in home gardens....the weather is warmer (marginally!!)...but still raining...we expect rain tomorrow....then heavy showers & lightning on Sun as we walk into Santiago....then it is supposed to be fine on Mon.....and we have been walking through lots of eucalypt forests...smells just like home....so good.....they have been planted to replace the oak forests that used to be here & which were decimated when the Spanish Armada was built!!!!! The oak trees grow too slowly so they have eucalypts. Our canadian friends have been fascinated to see the trees ....& also to smell them....& at the moment they are all losing bark so it looks quite impressive.....also John jumped up & got a few leaves for them to smell.....soooo good!!!
We will get a bus to Finisterre on Tuesday to see what´s there but will only have the day there.....we plan to go to the Mass in the Cathedral on Monday...can´t wait.....then will have a look around Santiago. We have booked our flights to UK....we fly on Wed at 11.35 am....the cheapest day by lots of Euros!!!! Haven´t been able to make contact with Ian (John´s foster brother) so we may go directly to Ann & Paul.
We are absolutely flying along these days....no problems fitness wise...or feet wise.....we just can´t seem to be able to do our pants up any tighter....John´s are falling off him...he has moved his belt in 2" & hius trousers are all gathered around the waist...not a pretty sight...he can take them off without undoing them. I have pulled the string in on my trousers by about 6"....& I nearly pulled the string out before I left home because I didn´t think I would need to use it....the trousers were quite tight!!!! Also I brought along a shirt that wouldn´t do up on the last 2 buttons....& now I can do it up with room to spare!!!! Now we have to hold back on the food & booze when we hit the UK!!!!
We have so many stories to tell you all but it is so hard to put them on here....they just wouldn´t sound right....can´t wait to see you all
love to all

Just a quickie.....

Yes, we will go on to Finisterre....but by bus....too far apart for regular accommodatione if we walk....going to have rain til the very end by the look of it....oops got 1 minute left
love to all

Still in Melide.....

We´ve just come back from dinner & I just wanted to share with you...we had dinner with our Canadian friends & another couple we have seen at various times on the Camino....he is American & she is from Norway....Elizabeth shared her story with us....her husband died last autumn from a diabetes related illness he had had for over 10 years & in the last few months the doctore discovered he had a cancer of his blood as well. Their daughter found she was pregnant & had her baby just 10 days before he died & he saw the baby twice....his first grandchild....their son who was working in Newcastle Australia at the time...they rang him & said maybe he should come home....he had 1.5 weeks with his dad before he died....and Elizabeth said they gave thanks they had the opportunity to all be together for this time.
She said she had thought about doing the Camino 10 years ago but was unable because of her husband. She had in the meantime been diagnosed with a rare muscle disease where she gets terrible cramps in her muscles after some exercise so thought she would be unable ot walk. But early this year she said she had a ¨message¨that she should do the Cam,ino...sio she started to walk...she can do 10kms then her muscles start to cramp so she always makes herself do 15kms.....& by then she is in agony & painkillers don´t work for her....it was so lovely when she was sharing her story....she wasn´t looking for sympathy....just sharing her story. Had us in tears......she will finish in about 3 - 4 days & never thought she would be able to do it....she asked if any of us were Catholics as she has been having instructions as she wants to convert to Catholicism....she is currently a Lutheran....and the Camino has reinforced things for her. She was such a lovely humble lady.
Now to dinner....you would all be so proud of me...I ate octopus....with tentacles on it....it is a delicacy here....we went to a Pulperia ( an Octopus restaurant) where the octopus is boiled then chopped up & seved in wooden platters with bread & a local white wine which is cloudy (tastes a bit like apple juice with no flavour - but has a bit of a kick which catches up with you later!!!)....the actual white meat part is delicious but the sucker part is still attached & is sort of slimy (like the fat on meat but softer!!)....anyway I had to be able to say I had tried it & now I have & I never have to have it again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It was definitely an experience NOT to be repeated.
Love to all

Melide.....

Well we´re down to less than 60 kms...it´s so good to see the kms going past....they have markers every .5 km so they go past quite fast....of course we are flying along now....4-5kms per hour....even uphill....in fact hills are easier to negotiate now than going downhill....that kills our feet & knees....we have been walking with a Canadian couple the last few days whom we get on with really well....they would fit in with our crew really well....same sense of humour....
The weather has been shit to say the least...apparently this has been the wettest May on record....the temp rarely goes above 14 degrees....we are in rain ponchos which seem to get wet inside (sweat)....with wet bottoms on our trousers....slipping in the mud......oh fun....forgot.....slipping in the cow shit is even more fun....especially going downhill over really rocky uneven ground.
Spent last night in an albergue with 18 of us in one room....most of them snorers with a wide range of sounds....John was getting very tense by 12.15am....was starting to yell....shake beds etc....had to give him the ear plugs to shut him up....he went straight to sleep, the b..^`*****....think I got about an hour in bits ....the eyes didn´t look too good this morning.
We may spend another day here to look around.....then we´ll have 3 x 18km days left to Santiago....a walk in the park!!!!!
It is so good to have had a HOT shower & know that noone is waiting outside for you to get out. Also to have a towel that is bigger than a stamp to dry ourselves with...the simple things make such a difference.
We have discovered that we only need one full meal a day....a small brekky....plus plenty of vino....& a bed.....plus the occasional opportunity to wash our clothes.
We are getting heartily sick & tired of the same 2 pairs of trousers & shirts....John was saying before that he would kill for a pair of jeans to put on.
He also wants Paul Young to know that he has muscles on his calf muscles.....a bit like Mark Budgens after his European walking!!!!´
Love to all

Sarria.........

Well er´re down tonearly 100 kms....have to do all theremaining kms now........yesterday was a lon 22 kms overwhat was supposed to be slightly rolling land but was steep up & down all day....throughfarms & lovely countryside....lots of cow poo....my new song is ¨Slip slidin´away¨¨...cow poo is decidedly slippery on a steep down hillrocky path.....went down through rocky gorges...lmost stream bedsafter the rain.
Johnhas hadhis replaement glasses ru n over &about 10 mins laterhebroke the arm ofhis sunnies...so he was inareally good frame of mind for a short while there.....finding it difficult that he can´t readanything atthe moment.
May be out of blog for the next few days....don´t seem to e many ops coming up....& lots more pilgris on the camino so there arealways people waiting for the computer.
We hope to reachSntiago bnextSunday
love toall

A few days on...

Haven´t had any access to a computer this week so have lots to rell & will probably forget most of it.
First night from Ponferrada we had in Cacabelos....what a great place....the albergue was in the grounds of the church...sort of wrapped around it with all the 2 bed rooms opening onto a central courtyard....so goo to have our own room even if we were stiull sharing showers etc. We were both a bit stiff after our couple of days off....unfortunately we had lots of snorers around us....some people have quite a repertoire!!!!
Have had some pleasant & easy walking through vineyards & cherry orchards.....easy on the eye & the feet. Some ups & downs but not too much. Had that next night in Trabedelos....fantastic albergue....really clean, warm covers on the beds & not horse blankets like we get sometimes.
From Trabadelos we started climbing again.....that day it was a long slow climb....hardly noticeable at all.
Next day was to La Faba....climbed about 700m in about 6-7-kms....quite hard on the legs but we recover quickly these days & in fact prefer the going up to coming down as we have had today....dropped 600m in about 4 kms!!!! & over very rough ground.....luckily through some fantastic countryside....just like Ireland....green, green & more green!!!
Joh spotted some deer leaping about in the distance....climbed through cloud yesterday morning & ended up at Alto do Poio at 1335m for the night. Lots of laughs with another Canadian couple we have met. John had spent the previous night getting tense with a guy who was snoring at top range....got out his torch to find him....got up & shook him & told him he was snoring quite loudly & nobody could sleep, which got a couple of the younger girls laughing. Then when it started again he dug around in his pack till he found his trail mix & started to peg it in the general direction of the noise....must have scored a hit as there was a muffled squawk & silence for a while....long ebnough for most of us to get to sleep. This was around 1.30am!!!!!
There´s lots more to tell but also lots of people in the queue for this computer
So...love to all

More Ponferrada.....

Forgot to tell you....we put out our stones from home at the Cruz de Ferro....the iron cross at the top of the range....it was absolutely freezing & forggy so even the photos aren´t much good.....spent over an hour trying to put photos on this blog in Leon but had no luck....anyway said a prayer for everyone at home when I put my stones down.
Also in Ponferrada we found some decent ponchos which fir over our packs as well...now we feel much more comfy walking in the rain

Ponferrada....

arrived here yesterday in the fog & rain & freezing cold...most pilgrims came over the hill in a taxi for some of the way including us....it was almost impossible to see coming over the hills....the taxi was only able to go about 40kms....could only see about 1 car space in front of us...quite scary as the road was quite twisty & steep & not in very good condition. Staying here in a hotel for a couple of nights to get warm....am sick of being cold...we thought the weather would be much warmer than it has been.
This is a lovely town with a castle staright from storybooks....the Knights Templar used to ride from it to defend the pilgrims...standing on the ramparts of the castle you can undeerstand why it was built where it is....the hills come almost to the front door....& you can see all around.
Hitting the trail again tomorrow......spoke with Emmeline who is very excited to finally have her own flat....& finds out this week if she has passed probation at work.
Richard is studying for exams at the end of the week....good luck Richie....we´re thinking of you....Dad´s been speaking with an Argentinian doctor who is cycling the Camino with his wife...he was interested to hear about you.
Ronnie.....¨The Long & Winding Road¨
Lynley....what are you doing out of bed at 4.00am???
Love to all

Rabanal el Camino.....

Got some sad news this morning...my aunt from Melbourne died....she has been sick for quite a long time & it was expected....but still sad to hear when you are so far from home....of course all the family will know this news.
21 kms today....beautiful scenery...as the books say it is once again 3 dimensional...lots of hills which tomorrow will turn into mountains. We walked into a very icy head wind all 5 hours....thank goodness it was not raining....the sun was shining even though it had virtually no heat.
Tomorrow is the day we have been waiting for....we will come to the iron cross where we will leave our stones from home...I am expecting this to be quite poignant.
Hope all are having a good weekend....last nights pizza was yum!!!!
Mum have said a prayer for Rosalie in the local church....sorry can´t remember the name of it.
Thinking of you all....love to you

Astorga....

What a lovely walk we had this morning....I thought it was only 17 kms but John assures me it was closer to 21 kms....whever it was I was dragging my feet for the last 2-3 kms.....we had walked a lot of the distance ovr extremely rocky paths....a bit like the bottom of a dry creek bed....the rocks were rounded & large...at least fist size or bigger....but the track was through corn fields (newly planted) and old forest....most picturesque...especially as it was rolling countryside as well. This seems to be a very wealthy town....the Spanish chocolate industry began here centuries ago....of course we have bought a little to try!!!!...There is also a Bishops House designed by Gaudi......Emmeline you would love the detail in the building...absolutely fantastic & maybe worth a look on the internet....John was very impressed & said it was worth the entrance fee of 2.50 euros. There are lots of tourists around & lots of expensive looking hotels to accommodate them....hence lots of touristy shops selling the local produce, chocolate etc.
If I cut this short it will be because John is back with our Takeaway pizza....can´t wait....it will be such a change from what we´ve been eating....can´t get over how sweet everything is......the Spanish definitely love their sweet things....lots of pastries, cakes & lollies.....sometimes we would kill for a pie!!!! or even a savoury pastry of some kind.
Tonight we are in an old convent....lots of space & only 4 to a room....the bathrooms are really clean too....the toilets are great as long as you can stand up vertically & not have to lean forward as you stand as you wil bash your head on the door....as it is your knees touch the door while you are sitting....& my legs aren´t even that long!!!!
Whoops....here comes Johnnie....might get back on here later....if not love to all

Hospital de Orbiga....again....

We have just had a really great dinneR....lots of others cooking or preparing their meals in the kitchen...the only warm place to sit....there were a few Germans, a couple of French and us....one of the Germans had travelled to Australia....worked for 5 weeks in the Barossa Valley and now calls himself a wine maker when in fact he is a fitter and turner.....so there was much cheek going back and forth....they heard my name was Tina and wanted to know if I could sing like Tina Turner...I soon disabused them all of that idea...one of the girls said she couldn't sing like her either but she could definitely dance like her....raised lots of laughs....we also had to explain what 2/up was as another guy ...a Sicilian who has lived in Germany for the last 46 years but still says he is Sicilian...
has visited Australia and got a 2/up game as a souvenir but didn't understand the significance of it....we had to explain to the young one who then translated to the Sicilian...what a shamozzle.....but we all had a good laugh. It never ceases to amaze us just how well people who don't speak the same language can understand each other....sign language has a lot going for it. Plus we all have a grizzle about the weather together...and even the Germans agree there are too many Germans on the Camino/......

The Rain in Spain....

or not it would seem....they are in the middle of a really bad drought....so bad that on telly the other night the headlines were that they are having to ship in water to Barcelona....so things are quite bad....maybe I should stop having a whinge about the rain, eh

Hospital de Orbiga....in the rain...

Oh how I hate the rain...especially when I have to walk in it....I know the Spaniards need the rain as much as we do at home...I just wish it would rain at night....wouldnçt even matter if it was overcast during the day but the rain ¡ cold wind together donçt make for very pleasant walking.
Walked about 10 kms today ¡ it was all beside a very smelly road....everyone seems to use diesel...so we tried to find a bus only to be told that the only bus had already gone for the day....so we were lucky to spot a taxi going in the other direction....he was of course happy to take us plus another Canadian couple to here....couldnçt wait to get a lovely hot cafe con leche after we had booked into the albergue. This one is run by a priest who has the church next door...bit of a dodderer....but it would be lovely here if the sun was shining...there is a lovely courtyard ...they are great sun traps if the sun is shining....which it isnçt. It is so cold here....glad I bought a scarf in Leon....should have bought a hat as well.
Tomorrow we set off on a more natural path throught he countryside so are looking forward to that...it will be good not to breathe the fumes
Our feet are standing up quite wll....my toe is much much better....have just been talking to a Dutch couple who said if you have the right mind=set and look after brother donkey [the body] then the feet will look after themselves....if your body and mind are well...so will your feet be well
Tried for an hour and a half yesterday to post some photos nut donçt seem to be able to achieve this....looks like we will have photo=less blogs and you will all have to wait until we get home....asked some locals to help but they were all decidedly unhelpful.
managed to get some cold medication for Johnnie yesterday and he seems to be feeling a bit better...though still obviously quite stuffed up.
Thatçs about it for today....by the way...John hashad to pull in his belt a bit more ...his trousers are looking decidedly baggy
Love to all

In Leon....

Got into Leon early yesterday morning...like lots of other pilgrims we got the bus for the last few kms as we were only walking through the industrial areas & right beside a very smelly & busy highway....many, many trucks flying past us very closely!!!!
Have decided to have 2 nights here in a hotel.... so nice to have our own room & bathroom....no snorers or snufflers or other farters around us......just peace & quiet....don´t even have to try to get dressed ünder cover¨.....unbelievable how the simple things mean so much. Ran into a couple of people we met about 8 or 9 days ago & they feel just like us....sick of seeing each other in the same old clothes....all our photos will have the same clothes.....we´re all ready for some new ones at the end of the trip.
Think I forgot to tell you....the pedestrian traffic lights here are really cute.....when it´s time to walk a little green man starts to walk too, & at the same time there is a digital countdown so you know how long you´ve got left....as it gets down to the last 10 or 15 seconds the little man starts walking faster & in the last 5 secs he starts to run....then he goes red & the countdown starts again so you know how long before it´s your turn again....seems to work really well as no-one jay-walks. We like to watch the little green man getting faster!!!! (Simple things, simple minds!!!)
Leon is beautiful....we´ve nearly worn out the old city streets....been round & round....this morning went for a walk around some of the newer streets....though still quite old....all beautiful buildings....the Cathedral is absolutely magnificent....lit a candle for you Mum to Our Lady of Perpetual Succour....the stained glass windows are reputed to be the best in Europe....some are so high you can´t even make out what they are, but the colours are glorious.
M-M....heard some fireworks last night but we think they were from the room down the hall!!!!!!
(Something about roman candles & lots of oohs & aahs!!!)
Lucas...thanks for keeping an eye on the house...also to all the others we know are having a quick check as they go past....it is much appreciated by us both
John´s lergy has turned into a full-blown cold today & he is feeling quite miserable...just wants his own bed & some real food.....porridge, cereal, juice....all home stuff....sick of bread, which we get with every meal. He´s also getting cranky just now as we are in the hotel and the light is on a timer which keeps turning off....he has to get up & move near the sensor to get it on again....you can just imagine, can´t you!!!
My toe is feeling a lot better today....managed to burst the blister yesterday....now I just have a sore spot on the top where it rubs against the other toe....got it wrapped in sheeps wool today to try before we walk again tomorrow. Will probably get the bus again for the first 6kms or so to get out of town...then start walking again
Mum...the actual distance we were originally aiming to cover was 800kms....but we will now be doing between 500 - 550kms....got about 350kms to go....I think...maybe less
love to all

Correction for last post....

the name of the town was Manzilla de las Mules....but at the time I didn.t really care

Manzilla del Moto

here we are again....19kms today...my foot gave me absolute hell today....the little toe is covered in white tape which I am afraid to take off in case it peels off the blister as well!!!!....hence it is in agony when I put my boot on....don´t really know what to do...will try a gel tube tomorrow & see how that goes. The air here is so very dry that we both feel like we need a bath in a tub of moisturiser....reaching the end of the meseta....hopefully be in Leon tomorrow....may stay for a couple of days as apparently there is plenty to see there....probably won´t see the fireworks though M-M as there are no festivals on.
The german woman & her daughter I told you about got the bus today to Leon as the mother is so sick....now it seems John may be getting what she & several others have... a really sore throat then a cough....hard to avoid when we sleep so close together in the one room....getting a bit over the fighting for space...those germans are so bloody pushy....no wonder they started 2 world wars....John´s abiout to start a 3rd!!!
Been much warmer today....very clear sky....but also a bit harder to walk in....would be absolutely terrible in summer.
Saw a pilgrim today who is cycling the Camino with his dog in a trailer looking out at the passing scenery. Passed lots of irrigation work on the meseta ....it´s so flat they need to get the water to the crops somehow.
John was impressed today as he saw a few trains go past on the track close to the Camino....gave him something else to think about!!! It can be quite boring just walking, walking along a nearly straight track....for 2 days we´ve been following a track lined with newly planted trees....to offer shade to pilgrims in years to come
Must mention....I was talking to a Frenc woman & her daughter in our room last night & she asked me where we came from...told her Australia....then she asked what our first language was & was most surprised when I said English....she assumed that Australians spoke something like German!!!! I was shocked to say the least & so was John
Tried to post some photos...only to be told the USB port doesn´t work!!!!
Love to all

El Burgo Ranero

Hello All....have done 17 kms today....the first 10 by 9.00am....we are in a lovely adobe albergue....sleeps 28 people in 4 rooms....much nicer than some of the huge dorms we´ve had. Have run into the same german mother & daughter for a few days now & they are in our room today.....not too sure that the mum is very well...smokes like a chimney & has to have a beer before she can ahve a shower!!! Coughs like an old derro....but for all that always pleased to run into us on the road. This albergue has an open fire that John is trying to help the hospitalero to get going....but it is very windy outside & the smoke is coming back down the chimney. Thank goodness it wasn´t this windy while we were walking....it was bad enough then....coming not so much from behind as from our right so not really a big help. This is a lovely quiet little town of just under 1000 people....very clean....no sign of sheep shit as we have had in lots of other places. They just drive their sheep down the street....really ugly sheep too....half of them their wool looks like it has just fallen off....they are all daggy & except that we haven´t really come across many flies I´m sure they would be fly blown as well.
We are going to cook our dinner here tonight as we are getting tired of the pilgrim´s menu they have in all the bars & restaurants....they are all the same & cost 8-9 euros each.
The walking gets a bit easier every day...as they say you walk into your fitness. My feet have been pretty good so far....fingers crossed....the little toe on the left is suffering the most....it has a giant blister on the end of it as it tends to get tucked under the next toe as I walk....hence after about ab hour of walking it begins to feel like every step I am putting my toes against a hot iron then pulling them off....not very pleasant. John´s feet are holding up well....in fact the most blisters have been on my hands from holding the hiking pole!!!!!
A special ¨Happy Mother´s Day¨to my Mum....hope you had a few of your kids around
Still walking through flat wheat fields...but very pretty all the same....all at different levels of maturity
Ronnie...one from John....Over the Hills & Far Away......or Rescue Me

Sahagun....

Well after a very cold & wet start to the day, we only did 7 kms & decided to book into a hotel to get dry & warm....probably should have waited a while as the weather is clearing but we have enjoyed our wander around Sahagun....it is market day....they are the same all over the world....veges, fruit & the usual cheap shit....also lots of salted fish.
Spent the last 3 hours sitting in a bar that seems to be the place to go on a Saturday arvo when the shops shut (as they do every day at 2pm). Had 3 glasses of vino tinto each, a pizza (yum) & then later some ¨patates bravo¨ (fried bits of potato drizzled with garlic mayo & chilli sauce, served on a platter with toothpicks) extra yum!!!! We really enjoyed watching the locals....they all smoke in the bar....stand on the butts on the floor (it´s the ashtray)....we´ll probably have lung cancer by the time we get home!!!!!
John here...Speaking of home, as i was walking in the freezing rain this morning I have come to the moment in my life that I am prepared to say those much aligned words ¨I´m sorry¨ I´m sorry for everything thats happened to all & sundry!!!!! Can I come home now ? !!!!
Tina was watching the locals in the bar & the locals were watching us !!!!!!! all good fun, one couple gave us a taste of their patates so we knew what we were about to order.
Here in Spain you can buy a bottle of good Vino tinto for less than the price of 2 cans of Coke !!!! How good is that !!!.
Along the same lines M-M, John has got ¨dos cerveza por favor¨down pat!!! Also ¨dos vino tinto por favor¨ & then he asks for the cork as well (with lots of sign language). We´re also pretty good at asking for ¨bocadilla¨ at lunch time.....unfortunately we are beginning to get a bit sick & tired of copious quantities of white bread.....it comes with absolutely everything....even salad!!
Lucas....thanks for checking on the house
Pointsweatiers....how did the 20 kms walk go? ´We will be interested to hear how you went....John says we will be back soon to train you, Spanish style
Emmeline....good luck with the next lot of flat hunting....& with finishing probation. The Budgens will be home before you know it.
Richard....good luck with the study....that little bloke you told us about has lots of problems doesn´t he? There´s a shortage of doctors in Spain as well...
Again. Happy Mother´s Day to all the mothers in our family & friends
Ronnie....¨Rescue Me¨¨¨¨
Love to all

Responses...

Have just read some of the comments from others of you....thanks & it´s good to hear from you Kevin & Christine....& Claire as well...I know you´d looove the vino tinto here....it´s so very drinkable
Kevin...this is nothing like Kokoda....not as much mud for a start....& no Fuzzy Wuzzy angels....we have Spanish angels instead
The weather here is much cooler that we had imagined...we start the day in our jerseys but they come off within the first 30 mins....but go back on when we stop for a cafe con leche (milk coffee)
Love to all....work hard

San Nicolas etc...

Sorry, can´t remember the full name...some of them are so looong....not a good day for me today...after yesterdays 18 kms over extremely rough ground, I struggled to do 15 kms today.....had a burst of energy for the first 6 kms & then died a death....my legs were killing me & my feet felt like they had been bashed with a stick on the bottom....John doesn´t have any of these problems whivh makes it even more frustrating for me as I feel I am holding him back....even though he assures me that you always walk to the pace of the slowest person! John wants me to say that it must be because he´s from good stock !!!!! Won´t tell you what my reply to him was!!! Lovely walking weather today....cool & slightly overcast....unfortunately Bernie & Danielle wanted to go on further so they have left us....we hope to catch up with them before they fly from Santiago on 10 June.
We spend most of our evenings in the local Bar as that is usually the only place to go....they provide the food for the Pilgrims....a special menu that is served at 7.30 so we can go to bed....great fun if you like to sit in a very smoky place....they ALL smoke & we go to bed with that aroma in our clothes!!!
We´re still on the meseta though today was not so much ¨flat¨as lovely rolling hills covered in green (young wheat)....very easy to look at & appreciate.This morning we went through a very small village with what looked like a Hobbit village where Frodo Baggins etc lived underground....really cute.
We only look at your comments after we have posted our latest Blog so it is difficult to reply in the moment....but it is great to hear from Simon & Helen, Kerry & Paula, & Rene & Sylvia...we thought you had forgotten us!!!!
The albergue we stayed in last night was the first one after a slog of 18kms with NOWHERE else to stop...hence the locals have it tied up....they have the albergue, the bar, the taxi & there´s nothing else....it was the pits....the only highlight for me was the hospitalero did a load of washing fro Danielle & I in a washing machine (cost us 3 euro)...but after having John do the washing for a couple of days where his idea of washing is to slosh the clothes in a bit of water....(no soaping the armpits etc!!)....it was my idea of heaven....this morning the clothes actually smelled like they had been washed.....most people on this Camino have a lovely aroma about them!!!! (Eau de Camino)
Will be in Leon in a few days & hopefully will be able to post a few photos.....these computers we have been dealing with are quite old & slow & don´t seem to have the facility we need.
From John to Craig....please send me Ron Gardner´s email address....Gracias
Love to all

Calzadilla de la Cueza...

26 kms yesterday...some of it beside a lovely irrigation canal....we heard lots of frogs & saw lots of tiny but very noisy little birds. It was really pleasant....then further on it was very straight , flat & boring. Can´t remember the name...they all blur after a while & I don,t have the book with me. I´ve been meaning to mention that most mornings it´s like walking inside a cuckoo clock....theé´s always a cuckoo somewhere nearby. Also lots of storks on the church towers sitting up & looking around.
Today we only walked 18 kms but on an extremely flat straight road that was very uneven...nobody has come off it without very sore feet...thank God for my boots with the high sides...it was real ankle rolling stuff....even in the boots.....all the ground had rounded off stones half buried & it was very hard to avoid....all walking was done with eyes down & if you wanted to enjoy the scenery you had to stop dead. We left at 6am with a Canadian couple ,Danielle & Bernie, whom we get on well with. ..lots of mist rising off the fields of wheat & corn....beautiful stuff.
We´ve met some great people....some aussies (from NSW), too many germans, canadians, french, & even some koreans & finns
We jhave dinner with an international mix of people most nights.....& it amazes us how well you can make yourself understood....even if only having a few words as we pass on the track. I had a Dane & and a Liverpudlian talk me up a hill the other day....I was at the top before I knew it. We have also seen an old Japanese lady who walks extremely slowly & has a small pack & a large walking staff....she looks like she is in absolute agony but determined to make the pilgrimage.
Before I forget in the next couple of days....Happy Mother´s Day¨to all our family & friends who are mothers....have a great day on Sunday
Love to all

Boadilla de Camino

Hello hello....still OK....another 20kms today......over a pretty steep hill to start with....on the tablelands of the meseta...by the time we got to the top it looked like all the mountains arouns us had been sliced off with a giant knife....they were all flat & the same height.....I got a taxi at the 11 kms mark as I was getting emotional again....this Camino has been very confrontational for me....lots of tears . John walked on & got to here in absolute record time...he can go so much faster without me...his legs are like machines....all that training Peter.
Lynley we are impressed that the Pointsweatiers are going to walk 20kms...serious training at last. How many coffee stops does it include?
Rodger...every time I have an apple I think of you....you´d just love these....slightly wrinkly & last years crop!!!
Ronnie & Di...keep the songs coming...John sings them as we go & you know how well I think he sings!!!!! ¨These boots are made for walking¨
Jill & Pete....haven´t quite made the 5 stars yet but plenty of Vino Tinto to kill the pain
Sankers...kepp up the bike riding....you´ll soon have quads to die for...Or look like a rugby player.
No 5...bad luck we´re not buying for you for Xmas....they have great barra fishing lures here!!!!! Spanish fly!!!
georgina, Mar-Mary & Dominique......thanks for your supportive messages....I know you understand where I´ve been coming from
Mum & Dad....we´ve been walking some places on paths like the ones cows make on the side of hills...barely enough room for your feet to pass each other. Dad you´d love the red wine here...it´s really mellow & far too easy to drink. I know you´re both saying a prayer for us & we´re saying them for all our loved ones at home
Emmeline & Richard....it´s good to get your texts & know you´re thinking of us....we love you & miss you both terribly
Love to all

Made it to Castrojeriz....

2 long days...or so it felt when we were walking them........Left Burgos at 6.50 am & walked 17kms to Hornillas del Camino....arrived there about 12 ish to join the queue of bags for the Albergue...this is what we are finding so distasteful about all this...the mad dash for a bed....& the Germans are the worst. They get up about 5.30 - 6.00 & turn on lights & rattle bags as they get ready to leave....no care for anyone else who doesn´t want to leave quite so early.

Today we got away about the same time & reached Castrojeriz about 12.30. Waited outside the Albergue for a couple of hours until it opened but so far there are only 6 of us in it....everyone else is in the other 2 in town. We specially aimed for this one as we will be wakened by Gregorian chants in the morning & we thought that was worth the experience!!!

Couldn´t tell you last time but the hospitalero in Burgos was an absolute Nazi...wouldn´t let you in if you had arrived in town by bus...whivh we had. We had to lay on a sob story abiout how sore my hip was....then I had to limp around for the rest of the afternoon!!!! At one stage I was going down the 38 spiral stairs one ata time & went to step aside so he could pass...but he made me continue in front of him....John thought I was putting it on but actually wasn´t at that time. Anyway later in the evening he played his guitar & sang for us...."All Shook Up", "Kumbaya" & "Ave Maria" all sound strange to us in Spanish. Either way, "Ave Maria" had me in tears anyway.
Last night in Hornillas we had the pilgrims menu in the bar across the road....we were let in at 6pm & not a minute earlier. The boss lady was very bored looking,,,,had enough of pilgrims!!!....anyway we were in a sitting of 20....by the time dinner was over we & she were all in stitches....she didn´t want her photo taken & kept hiding her face....then when someone got a photo of her....she gave him the bill for dinner & told him it was for the photo. A couple of the guys had meatballs for dinnerr & she said as she put the plate down that they were having mens balls....thought she was hilarious. We had dinner with a nice Canadian couple.
Been walking through lots of corn fields...very young plants....& over rolling hills. Big thunder storm last night but was lovely & cool to walk this morning.
Managed 20 kms today...lots of it through sticky mud....but also had about 6 kms on as road which is really tiring on the legs.

Peter...John´s seen a poster foe the Camino run...they do it in 9 days...he thinks that might be the next thing for you & him to try!!!!!

Sylvia & Rene....thanks for your tip for our laces,,,it works a treat

Love to all & keep those messages of support coming...they really keep us going

Burgos...

What a gorgeous old city....arrived by bus today from Navarette & will begin to walk th meseta tomorrow....lets hope we get a fair way along in the next week or so....then we will reassess....but now hope to finish the pilgrimage from here.
But I would like to say to everyone who has responded to our blogs...you will never know just how much all your supportive messages mean to us...we were feeling very low & emotional for a few days after Tues over the mountain....we were almost ready to give up....& to read all your messages of support had us both in tears a couple of times....we have been very emotional....don´t really understand why but thinmk it is because of all we went through. That mountain was bigger in many ways than even we can realise....probably not making much sense at the moment but that´s how it is. We have definitely drawn closer these last days.
Apologies to Peter...we were not being critical...more saying just how underprepared we were...& we know it was our own fault. ...thanks for your message back....we will have a very different Camino to the Carlsons.
Ronnie...we were Lost in France (Spain) ......
Mum & Dad....can you please advise who we are buying for this Xmas
Love to all

From NAVARETTE

Got the bus yesterday from Pamplona.....apparently it was very steep & hilly through there.....what a shock when we arrived in Logroño to find the albergue was full & we were then escorted through the old town to the ¨"Father´s house"....the local priest who puts up pilgrims with nowhere to go....last night he had 60 in his house & then another 10 sleeping in the church.....we got to sleep on a 1 inch thick vinyl covered foam mattress on very cold tiles....the 60 of us had to share 1 toilet/shower for men & the same for women....the toilet was in with the shower so there were long queues. There was no charge though & there was food in the kitchen we could have....only a donation was asked for all this. Th priest came in to make sure we were all comfy. The town of Logroño was in a festive mood as it was Labour Day public holiday....we enjoyed vino tinto & tapas in a couple of bars.....met some lovely German people whose son is studying at Uni there. Tried a couple of vinos as we are in the La Rioja region which is famous for it´s wine. In fact we were told it was much better than Australian vino tinto!!!! The tapas were delicious...lots of ham which again is very famous & somewhat like prosciutto....in white bread rolls....also had a particularly yummy one which was a round roll with tomato & morcilla whish was put in a sandwich toaster before being served.....fould out today that morcilla is blood pudding!!!!! Won´t have that one again....
Walked from Logroño to Navarette today ....staying in a lovely albergue but had to queue up for a couple of hours to ensure a bed. We are finding this a bit off-putting....too many pilgrims & not enough beds....& we thought we´d picked a quiet time. Too many Germans who take off like bats out of hell to ensure they get a bed....it is so competitive....in fact today we decided it was like "The Great Race"....then someone else came along & said the same thing. If it is like the race, we´ve been eliminated already!!!!!
We´re now reassessing the way we´ll do the Camino....finding it very commercial & overcrowded & NOT what we expected.
Will keep you updated & hope to get some photos up soon....noone has the facility so far
Love to all

Another quick update...

Now for some more upbeat info so far....yesterday morning we had brekky with a lovely old french couple of 84 years of age....they are doing their 16th Camino....have done the walk over the pass 10 times....we said they were crazy but they just laughed at us.....we feel very inadequate.
Forgot to mention yesterday that it was only 1 degree when we woke ...very chilly. Yesterday arvo we ran into a couple of pommy girls who startded out from SJPdP just after us & got lost on the mountain...they were really lucky that a lady came along to rescue them. She had just collected her very elderly father from hospital & was taking him for a drive.
Also forgot.....thr weather when we were walking was glorious....sunny & clear....absolutely fantastic scenery....views to the Alps to the east......also lots of very cold, icy wind which blew us around a lot.
We´re in Pamplona at the moment...got a taxi here to give me some time to recover....will get a bus to Logroño tomorrow where we can start walking without too many big hills which have me spooked at the moment
Had lovely Tapas last night with some particularly delicious red wine....we were in the old part of the city on the street where they have the running of the bulls.
Love to all

I want to come home.....

We feel like intrepid travellers....what have we let ourselves in for....we were advised by other pilgims in the past not to walk from St Jean Pied de Port....but I was so determined to be a REAL pulgrim that I insisted we star there.....well now I can hardly walk....we were told that althoug we weren´t leaving until 10.30 am we woould still have plenty of time to make the 8 hour walk....it took us nearly 11 hours....& that was with John carrying my pack after the first 3 hours....I was knackered & would quite happily have spent the night on the mountain...luckily we didn´t because there was snow on it this morning. It really made me think about my ability to complete this pilgrimage....I´m beginning to feel like I am all talk but not able to complete the action.
Anyway we started out this morning & I nearly freaked out at the first hill...couldn´t even make myself walk up it....started to cry....so we ended up getting a taxi to Pamplona.hope to stay here 2 nights but they have a big May day celebration & can only get 1 night.....will have to move on tomorrow unless we get lucky with the hotel.
Yesterday was nearly all uphill at about 45 degrees then after about 9 hours of that it was almost vertical going down (or so it seemed) ...thank God for walking poles. We were so exhausted that the Hospitaleros at the albergue came out to help us in....they were our Guardian angels...gave us a cup of cinnamon tea to warm us....then took us to the old monastery to sleep as the albergue was full......insisted that we have at least a bowl of soup for dinner as we would need to have some food in us & came to escort us to the restaurant to make sure we didn´t just die in our beds.
We are so stiff today....myright hip & left knee are really sore....Johns shoulders are stuffed after carrying 2 packs for about 7 hours over the Pyrenees
Peter Rhodes....training was far from adequate for this.
Paula Mary...glad you aren´t here...you would have been just as dead as me.
Emmeline & Richard.... we are fine & will cope....especially after nice vino tinto & tapas....also a cerveca (spanish beer for dad).
Mum & Dad....sorry no photos yet....no facility for them
Budgens...you´re in the lap of luxury...we are jealous & that will be us next time
We don´t make very good pilgrims so far
Love to all at home & at work& the gym
At this rate we should be home by Christmas!!!!!

Here we are::::::

After a really long plane trip & with very sore bums we arrived in Paris 10 mins early. John had left his priscription reading glasses on the plane into Dubai so we had to spend about 30 mins at airport trying to sort out collecting them on the return trip. Then the shuttle bus took us to the Wrong Ibis hotel. Sorted that & our hotel was only a 5 min train ride from the airport. Went straight into Paris to see the Eiffel tower....said Hi from you Di & that you would be over soon to say Hello yourself.......Paris is even dirtier than I remember. We were stuffed by now so headed back to the trtain...............fell asleep so lucky John was able to stay awake!
The train trip down to Bayonne was unreal according to John....full of French countryside!! It was very flat. Been rainig here today....but Bayonne is very pretty & very old. We will get an early train to SJPdP tomorrow & may even start walking then too. Already think we have too much gear & have culled already.
This french keyboard is really weird....letters in all the wrong places & all those french acutes & graves etc on it as well. Hence this is a short msg just to let you know we are still alive

This is it.......

finally "the" day has arrived....been planned for so long & now there's no going back.  We've checked in on-line & had dramas changing our seat allocation but now it's all done.

Only need a shower now ....Paula & Kerry are taking us to the airport & will be here about 4.30pm.

Next blog from France.........

Last day at work for Tina

& only 2 sleeps to go.............getting nervous now.........hope we've got everything.........I know we can buy over there but........

4 sleeps to go....

The butterflies are starting to flutter..........

I'm over it now.......

Down to the last few days....it's Sunday & we leave next Friday evening. It all feels a bit like an anti-climax now....we've been planning & dreaming of doing this pilgrimage for so long that now it's about to happen I don't really know what to think.
I seem to have spent hours & hours on the computer researching the thing to death......now it's going to actually happen. I think I've read just about every little thing I possibly could....all the good & the bad....Now I have to hope it's not disappointing when we actually do start to walk.
This is really hard to put into words....my mind is quite "busy"....thinking, thinking, thinking....churning almost....not getting too much sleep at the moment....can't get the mind to turn off.
I can only hope things improve once we get on the plane......roll on Friday.
We will be going to the Dawn Service for Anzac Day on Fri....then Brekky with friends....then home for a few hours for the final "get ready" before heading to the airport.
This week will crawl....at the same time will also go too fast!!!! Can't please some people.......!!

2 weeks & 1 day to go.....

After I finish work today I only have 7 more days of work left....John has 9 days....

Every time I think about going away it frightens me just how quickly this pilgrimage has actually crept up on us....for so long it was in the very distant future & really only a dream....now it's about to become a reality

We're pretty much organised equipment wise....just have to get our heads around it now......especially our first day of walking.....there will be mostly uphill....for 26.5 kms...could make or break us!!!

Had a cortisone injection in my right heel last Friday....hopefully to "cure" the plantar fasciitis" which has been a scourge to my preparation....amazing just how painful the bloody thing can get.

Now we just have to worry about blisters.........

4 weeks to go........

As everyone knows by now, John & I are off to Spain on 25 April to walk the Pilgrim Trail.....800kms....from St Jean Pied de Port in the French Pyrenees to Santiago in Spain. We fly into Paris on 26 April & leave Paris at lunchtime on 27th to travel by train to Bayonne.
We'll have 2 nights in Bayonne then travel by train again to St Jean. One night there & on 30th April we start walking!!!
The only other confirmed date is that we fly out of London on Fri 20 June & arrive home 22 June.
The time is getting scarily close now. We've got Mum's 80th birthday party today then we can really concentrate in the fine tuning of what we're taking..............keeping in mind the weight limits we hope to achieve...........we want to be carrying a max of 10 kgs including 2 litres of water each.....so really a max of 8 kgs in our packs. Not doing too bad so far...........got mine only up to 5.5kgs.....haven't weighed John's yet.